A wonderful and life-affirming family trip to Timor-Leste to visit Ornella Byak and BETTER’s Bakhita School of Excellence.
Timor-Leste was colonised — but not developed — by Portugal until 1975. When they left, Indonesia invaded on the 8th of December 1975. This was followed by 25 years of occupation, war, imprisonment, torture, and the killing of an estimated 220,000 East Timorese (20% of the population).
Timor-Leste became independent in 2002 — only 23 years ago. It’s a young nation with an ancient, rich, and beautiful culture, surrounded by incredible natural beauty. It’s also a place of contrasts — full of chaos, character, and kindness. The people are gentle, warm, and deeply optimistic.
We spent two days in humid Dili learning the history, visiting the Chega! and Resistance museums and the Presidential Palace, dodging motorbikes and navigating the chaotic traffic.
Then came two days snorkelling on Atauro Island, home to some of the most diverse species of fish and coral I’ve ever seen. We travelled by tuk tuk and met enthusiastic children who had no access to screens — active, creative, cheeky, and utterly charming.
Mount Ramelau is the highest mountain in Timor-Leste at 3,000m. Just getting there — via an unsealed road that resembled a roller-coaster — was an adventure in itself. We began our climb at 3am to make the summit by sunrise. My 83-year-old mum, Sandra Byak, made it to the top in 3.5 hours. We spent 30 minutes in howling wind and rain at the summit, hugging other climbers who had also made the pilgrimage, then took another three hours to descend in the rain. No regrets!
We then spent four days in Same (pronounced Sah-may) in the district of Manufahi. The weather was milder, the nature scenic and peaceful, the community warm and embracing, and the traffic calmer. I wish we could have stayed four weeks.
Our destination was the Bakhita School of Excellence — a school of 100 students where all lessons are taught in English. There are 50 Year Two students who attend from 7:35am to 12:35pm (with two cooked meals provided), and 50 Year One students who attend from 12:55pm to 6:00pm (also with two meals).
We were honoured to be welcomed by the generous Parent & Community group, who gifted us with traditional handwoven tais. My mum and I had the privilege of cutting the ribbon to officially open the Bakhita English Institute — an evening English program for adults, running from 6:30 to 8:30pm.
Building and empowering the people of Timor-Leste through education and resources is the dream and mission of my 26-year-old niece, Ornella Byak — a woman I am deeply in awe of.
There are big plans for the future of this school. I will definitely be returning any chance I get.
If you’d like to learn more — or sponsor a child’s education — click the links below:
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